Tag Archives: Nafplio

Back in Nafplio

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We took a trip to Greece for Ashley’s birthday.  This time we went on the bike.  Ferry from Çeşme to Chios (Sakız) where we enjoyed a few beers with friends and nearly missed the ferry to Piraeus.  It is probably worth adding that we did not see many refugees on Chios and those we did see seemed well settled with small businesses.  Our friend, however, told us that the tourist industry is not doing well. Bookings down by 80%.  Tourists, it seems, are fickle beasts.

We did better in Piraeus this time – we only went the wrong way once and when we did we quickly realised we were going the wrong way.  Our excuse is that it was very, very early in the morning.  We were in Nafplio far too early and our hotel room was not ready.  The management could not have been more apologetic (even though it was not their fault – it was barely ten in the morning) so we took ourselves off for an excellent breakfast.

We really did not do a great deal that day, other than wander around and eat delicious ice cream.  It really is very much a tourist town (it gets cruise ships) and we did buy a hat.


The next day we indulged in some serious sight seeing.  We didn’t manage to get to the museum on our previoddmm (date)Portrait02us visit and this omission needed to be corrected.  The area has been inhabited since the iron age and there were the usual prehistoric pots plus some very fine Attic red figure ware.  And the only entire suit of Mycenaean  armour that has survived to the present day.  In the afternoon we headed up the 1000 (actual number disputed but it’s an awful lot) steps to the fortress.  This is huge.  It was originally Venetian but was taken over by the Ottomans and then the Greeks.  Once you get to the top the climbing is not over as there are a number of different bastions, linked by passageways.  There are doors that seem to lead to nothing except thin air, but often there are steps leading down from them quite safely. And interesting though the history is, the major attraction here just has to be the wonderful views.


The evenings were spent in a large square in town where vendors found a ready market for various toys including giant bubble blowing machines and luminous twirly parachuting things.  The square was full of children, and people generally strolling.  After two lovely nights we headed off to Mystra, but that’s for another post…







castle-on-the-hillNext up after Chios and the ferry was Nafplio.  It took a little longer than planned, due to missing road signs in Athens, but eventually we found the right road out and were on our way.  Nafplio is really pretty, and of course a great place to use as a base to visit various places in the area, more on which is for a later post.

Compared to Turkey, it can be expensive in Greece.  It is also possible to eat, drink and do tourist stuff and be incredibly good value, even in Nafplio.  We got lucky with a really nice and good value pension, avoided the tourist bars and restaurants, found some excellent tavernas in the backsteets with great food, good wine, and excellent value.  We had some delicious locally made ice cream, climbed the claimed 999 steps up to the castle (in reality a few less) and generally hung out in the evenings.

We talked to some locals who were fascinated to hear we were living in Turkey, asked questions about the politics in Ankara and events in Istanbul.  We also talked about events in Egypt, and of course the economic situation in Greece.  It was really interesting to hear those views, to listen to expressed interest and perception of events.  There was some lively and polite political debate.

Napflio is a great place to relax, a charming historic town, and a really good introduction to mainland Greece.