We left Methoni and rode through spectacular scenery in rapidly worsening weather. We managed to take shelter in a village during the first downpour and took the opportunity to eat a spot of lunch. We managed to take shelter in a garage cafe during the second downpour and had a coffee whilst waiting for the worst to pass. The final downpour occurred just as we got to Dimitisana. We parked the bike under a tree and took refuge under an overhanging roof. About half an hour later, a charming gentleman (Jordan) came out of his hotel and asked if we needed somewhere to stay. We had parked the bike right outside! As you can see above (in better weather).
Cold and dripping wet we inspected the gorgeous rooms of a genuine boutique hotel. We really could not turn it down after leaving puddles on the floor and water soaking into rugs, apart from which the rain was still torrential and being out in it was not high on our agenda. We decided to stay two nights and, after a hot shower and dry clothes, enjoyed a beer in the bar which has the most amazing view. With the weather clearing we strolled into town past the Roman bridge and found plenty of choices for dinner. We ate well in Dimitsana.
Next morning we had a huge homemade breakfast, including fried nettle leaves and morel mushrooms that Jordan had foraged from the forest. Then we set off on a walk. The trail was reasonably well marked and our first stop was a surprisingly interesting outdoor water power museum. The whole area was famous for water powered industry right up to the middle of last century. There was a fulling tub that resembles a huge top loading washing machine, a flour mill, gunpowder mill, raki still and a tannery. All with very informative videos.
This is the fulling tub:
We walked on down the trail but turned around after a few hours and came back by road. It was all down on the way out to the bottom of the gorge, and all up on the way back! We should have taken more water with us, we didn’t, but there was an abundance of fast flowing streams on the way down.
The walking was quite hard so we didn’t get too many views of the scenery. There were frequent stops to try and capture photographs of butterflies! We do want to go back to Dimitsana and do a bit more exploring – there is quite a lot to see in that part of Arcadia but, this year, we didn’t really have time.
Next day we headed back to Nafplio for a relaxing evening before catching the ferry to Chios then on to home via Çeşme.
We left Kerkini in very windy weather. For this part of the journey we were glad not to be on the bike. The wind was pushing the car around and trees were falling into the road ahead of us. We went by a scenic route – bits of highway and bits of very windy mountain roads. Something to repeat on the bike at some point in the future as the scenery was spectacular.
We were headed for Lake Prespa through which run borders between Greece, Macedonia and Albania. We did not encounter any snow but there was plenty to be seen on the mountains that surround the lake.
On our first evening we walked from our hotel in Psarides along the shore of the lake. We saw caves that belonged to hermits, we saw lizards and we had to crawl through a cave to get around a headland.
On our first full day we drove out to various sites where we hoped to see many birds. We were not very lucky when it came to taking photographs though we did hear nightingales and cuckoos and Ashley saw an oriole. We saw more lizards. We then went across a causeway to an island that used to be attached to the mainland. There was some very pleasant walking there and we encountered a wild cat. Well, it was wild about tummy rubs and ear scritches… It followed us for quite a long way. Using our monoscope we were able to see the many, many pelicans on their islands in micra Prespa but we have no means of taking photographs at that sort of distance. It is a pretty island though!
On the last day we went walking upwards through an ancient Greek Juniper grove. The flora were spectacular. Fields full of flowers including quite a lot of orchids. The views out over the lake were amazing.
We were in the UK and Ireland in February then, in April, at Hilary’s father’s 90th birthday party in London. Pretty well as soon as we got back we took of on the ferry to Kavala, hired a car (with some difficulty, as it was a Sunday and everywhere was shut) and drove straight to Lake Kerkini.
Kerkini village is a delightful place. On this occasion there was a (very well behaved) school party staying in the hotel so we were treated to three nights in a beautifully restored house. Beers were taken at our favourite bar in the village and meals at the Oikoperigitis where our friend Vasilis is a guide.
On our first day we traveled around the lake, visiting favourite places and taking photographs of birds. The next day we went up to the monastery, above which is a small reservoir where we were lucky enough to see a black kite perched, motionless in a tree for about twenty minutes. We went on to a spot near the Bulgarian border where rollers are often found but we can’t honestly say that we found any. It was only a short drive on some extremely good roads. We did see a very long line of trucks waiting to cross the border.
We also went out on Vasilis’ boat. This is always a magical experience and different every time. This year the level of the lake has been kept low to avoid flooding of the villages. This has not been a totally good thing for the wildlife. We were not able to enter the drowned forest (which is, sadly, slowly dying) though we did get quite close.
It was, of course, perfect biking weather (we left the bike at home). But the next part of the trip was very windy so we were, eventually, glad of the hired car.
On Sunday we went walking in Pamucak wetlands. This is about 20 minutes by Dolmuş from Selçuk and a place of stunning natural beauty. It seems to be constantly under threat from industrial waste, development and tourism but, for the moment, it remains protected. Jeep ‘safaris’ and quad bikes run through it as well as horse back tours. None of those happening at the moment, though we did see a couple of guys working out quad bike routes.
We were fortunate to see three adult and two sub adult flamingos. They pass here (stopping off for lunch) on their migration to places further north.
The asphodel is flowering right now – well, beginning to flower in our area. We saw black bees gathering the pollen. And butterflies. We saw quite a few butterflies and two large tortoises, quite awake. We heard a lot of frogs. We saw buzzards and larks (lots of larks) and sparrows, goldfinches and masses of magpies. Not to mention the Kentish plovers.
Today we saw storks flying high and several swallows. So spring is definitely in swing here in Selçuk.
A couple of years ago we wrote about our trip to Boz Dağ with Zirve Club. On that occasion we hoped to find snow but failed. This time we found rather a lot of snow. We think we arrived in the village later than anticipated partly because we stopped off for breakfast before we even got to Tire and partly because the road was snowy and slippery. After a brief stop in the village we headed up the mountain. Knee deep in snow much of the way. One group stopped just below the tree line. We went up quite a bit further and a third group went right to one of the lower peaks.
Going up was easier than coming down. Hilary needed a lot of help and still fell over (snow makes for a soft landing). There was then a longish stop to appreciate the snowman, fail to light a fire and to wait for the final group to rejoin us.
There was another break in the village for lunch (and warming up by the tea room soba) before we headed back for the bus. We were supposed to go to Gölçük but that part of the trip was cancelled, due to a combination of the late hour and the poor road conditions (not to mention the traffic jam) and we headed down to Birgi where we had a wander for half an hour before heading home.
We have seen a travel site that insists that Turkey always has ‘bikini weather’. Beautiful this was, but…. not bikini weather.
This was our first walk with Zirve this year. They have been on two outings but we were in Lesvos for the first one and Bodrum for the second.
This walk started in Guzelcamli, up, over part of a hill then down to the coastline. Along the shore to Aydinkoy (which is the second beach and one much favoured by wild boar). The weather was absolutely perfect for walking. I think the high was around 26 degrees, the sky was blue and the sun shone upon us.
We started with a minute’s silence for those affected by the bombs in Ankara last weekend. We then walked a marked trail – it was mostly very easy going with a few steep bits. There were a total of 170 of us. Rather too many for our liking though, as ever, there was a great sense of camaradie, our Turkish was practiced and new friends were made. There were about 25 of us on the bus from Selcuk, plus the Mugla, Izmir and Soke branches and a busload from Kusadasi.
All along the way we came across indications that refugees had also taken this path. We found discarded clothing, bags, certificates, ID papers, exercises in English for Arabic speakers, water bottles, juice cartons, medicine packaging, food packaging, cigarette packs. On the shoreline we found a pump, clearly used to inflate a boat. Several life jackets were retrieved. Yes, it makes a mess in a National Park, but people are people and people are more important.
After lunch at Aydinkoy (with the boars) some swam and others didn’t. We then walked up, mostly along paths and road, back to Guzelcamli where we had a chance to visit Zeus’ cave before getting the bus back home.
Leaving aside the ongoing human tragedy and the biker stuff which will be the subject of a later post.
There was another ride out planned for the Sunday, but we had to be back in Mitilini for 4pm so would have needed to leave mid lunch. So, we made our own fun. We went bird watching around Skala Kaloni. Early October is not the best time, the Bee Eaters are gone south for winter, many other species have migrated, and the wetlands are at their driest, so waterbirds are more scarce.
In a couple of hours and not really trying hard. 2 Black Storks, a Peregrine Falcon, a juvenile Bonelli’s Eagle, Little Egret, Night Heron. Along with all the usual suspects, Grey Heron, finches, larks, sparrows, buzzards, gulls. Sadly not many pictures, we only had the pocket camera with us.
Oh, and for completeness on avian matters, from the day before, Theo, Hilary’s friend. Theo is multilingual, speaks, Greek, English and Turkish.