There is a company which runs buses from Flores through to Cancun. The buses have toilets (which you are asked not to use any more than you have to) and English speaking guides. They are marginally more comfortable than the local second class buses. But their huge advantage is that they are allowed to cross the necessary borders. We caught one of those from Flores to San Ignacio (in Belize)
Belize is culturally fascinating. The people there speak English, Spanish and a local language known as Kriol which is a kind of Spanish/French/English patois spoken very, very fast. San Ignacio itself is quite touristy. There’s a certain amount of hustle – there’s an entire street full of tour operators offering to take you to various places (it’s pretty well price fixed and none of them were happy to take us to El Pilar). So we were able to fix ourselves a trip to Caracol, which was one of our definitely ‘must see’ sites and pretty well impossible to reach independently.
I don’t think we have many pictures of San Ignacio, but it is an attractive town (away from the tourist strip, which isn’t all that bad anyway) sitting on a river with a lovely vermillion flycatcher, right in the town centre.
The first afternoon we wandered down to branch mouth, a local beauty spot. We got lost several times on the way there which was not entire a bad thing as we saw this which we are pretty sure is a lesser yellow legs.
We ate mostly in Ko-Ox Han nah which means ‘Let’s go eat’ – fantastic Belizean food. Not just chicken rice and beans. This was where we first experienced fry jacks… But chicken rice and beans along with cole slaw is what you mostly get to eat in Belize.
So, the next day we headed off to Caracol. It’s a long and bumpy drive (we saw a crocodile in the river), so on the way we stopped to view some caves which were used by the Maya for ritual.
Onwards to Caracol. We had an excellent guide who pointed out a number of birds and other sorts of wildlife, as well as giving us his own take on what the Maya were all about (every guide seems to have their own theories). I have a list of the birds we saw but the one in the photo is an emerald toucanet. We were very lucky to see it – they are quite rare.
Caracol itself is an interesting site, the largest in Belize – allied at one time with Tikal and subsequently with Calakmul. The excavations are relatively recent. There is a wonderful story about a Princess from Caracol who was exiled, for a while to Xunantunich. Xunanatunich means stone woman.
But really, what we enjoyed most there, was the wildlife. Belize is excellent for wildlife and there are notices everywhere, exhorting the locals to look after it.