Yes, it’s been a while since our last post. We were in Berlin….
We were warned not to take an organised tour from Palenque to Bonampak. You may recall that part of the purpose of this trip was to break ‘the curse of Bonampak’. We tried to get there on three occasions. On the first it was deemed too difficult due to terrorist activities. On the second the murals were closed and on the third attempt we ran out of cash in Frontera de Corazol.
We ignored the warning and purchased an organised tour. This was incredibly good value. We were picked up at our hotel in Palenque, taken for a good Mexican breakfast, driven up to where you get on the launch to Yaxchilan boated up the river to Yaxchilan, taken back for a decent Mexican lunch, on to Bonampak. Overnight in a really good jungle lodge on the river then picked up and driven to Flores in Guatemala. We were the only English speakers on the bus, though there was another bus with some Canadians in it. We met a lot of Canadians on this trip. Central America is a lot warmer than Canada in January and February.
On the way to Yaxchilan I saw a pair of toucans flying. They look….. improbable. How can they fly so elegantly with those great, heavy beaks?
Yaxchilan is one of our very favourite sites in Central America. The lintels are just amazingly delicate. Some of them are in the British Museum so if you are ever in London you can see them there. Some of them, however, remain in situ. The wildlife is also rich. When we were there in 2010 a Fer de Lance was spotted less than an inch from Ashley’s foot. This time the wildlife seen was less poisonous (and mostly monkeys)!
And we finally got to Bonampak! It’s a lovely little site but…. They are quite rightly highly protective of the famous frescoes. Only three people are allowed into the frescoes at once and there was a sizeable queue. This meant that we felt we couldn’t really stay staring at the frescoes for the several hours we would have needed to take in all the detail. Ashley managed to get some pretty decent shots. The rest of the site is very restful. Nicely laid out and presented. And the crowds, of course, are queuing up to see the frescoes. What struck me was the contrast between these amazing frescoes and the carvings…. After what we had seen just a few hours earlier at Yaxchilan, the carving seemed…. interesting but blockier… less delicate, less sophisticated. It made me wonder what the frescoes at Yaxchilan or Calakmul or Tikal must have been like….
So, we broke the curse.
After Bonampak we stayed for one night at Ya Toch Barum, a jungle lodge run by local Lacandon people. Not just a lodge but an entire complex with a recycling centre and a shop which doubles as an internet cafe along with a restaurant. We were shown to a very pleasant bungalow… in which the light did not work. We found someone to come and fix it – it turned out not to be fixable so we were upgraded to a bungalow on the river.
After breakfast we were shepherded across the border into Guatemala and on to Flores. Flores is pretty but very, very touristy. Our hotel was lovely (great roof terrace overlooking the lake) but the discos and bars along the shore of the lake were a bit too noisy for our liking. Not crowded – just noisy.
But noise or not, Flores is very beautiful and a great jumping off point for a visit to Tikal.