The first thing we noticed about Rhodes town was that it was shut. There were a few shops and cafes open just after we arrived but we think they had opened for day trippers as they closed early in the evening and didn’t reopen for three days. Yes, it was Easter in some parts of the world, but it was a full week before Orthodox Easter so that can’t have been the reason.
This would have been difficult if we had gone to Rhodes to go shopping or hang out in more than one or two cafes. As things were, though, we had the historic centre, if not to ourselves, at least without the crowds we have seen there in summer.
In Rhodes town it is hard to focus on any one thing – you’re completely surrounded by the medieval city. It is there wherever you look. We walked up to the Acropolis on the first afternoon then back down, around the moat and through the old streets.
We were fortunate in that, although not many restaurants were open, we managed to avoid the aggressively marketed tourist joint in the middle of town and found a couple of excellent places catering to the local population. One particular recommendation would be the Megiston somewhere in the maze of the old city.