A friend managed to arrange for one of the archaeologists working on Anaia to provide a guided tour and we were fortunate enough to be included in the invitation. The site is a small hill, partly artificial on the coast between Kuşadası and Davutlar, which appears to have been occupied since the bronze age, although at present what is being worked on is a church which originally built in the 5th century and subsequently rebuilt is few hundred years later. The latest buildings are summer homes – quite a few siteler have been built around the ruins (and probably on top of some of them). The contrast between the siteler, the shops and beaches and restaurants that service them and the site of the dig is… odd.
Our guide from Ege University was clearly knowledgeable and gave good explanations of what we were seeing, showing us where more modern walls had been built on older ones, how stone from a Hera temple which lies beneath the church was recycled and used, and pointing out various things of interest.
There was a whole team of archaeologists there, working on excavation of a smaller chapel and clearly there are plans to work on the site for some years. It was explained to us that the walls and arches of the crypt had been recently strengthened so that they can excavate down to the floor which is two metres lower than at present.
Kadı Kalesi, which is how the site is generally known, is a much later addition. The website is very informative and can be viewed in English.