We had a lovely day out with friends.  We were driven around Lake Bafa (stopping off for tea at a very pleasant café with excellent views of the lake)  to Kapıkırı, the modern village around ancient Herakleia.  We were treated to a traditional lunch of salad, vegetables, home made bread, lake fish and mountain water.  Afterwards we went off on our own exploring.  Which was fun.  We got up high above the village and took photographs.  The scenery is wonderful – we saw the five finger peaks from the other side back in spring when walking with the Zirve club.

Then we went looking for the theatre.   That might have been a mistake…

A small crowd of local ladies decided to guide us to the theatre and show us the cistern and the city walls.  They were not to be dissuaded.  They were very pleasant, chatting away in a mixture of English, German and Turkish.  They showed us an ancient olive tree.  They took us to the theatre.  They gave us some peace in which to take photographs of the theatre…

The lovely thing about the theatre is that, although pretty ruined, it is pure Hellenistic.  Not a Roman theatre at all though, obviously, late for a Greek theatre.  We would have liked more time to look around it but the ladies were certain that we were not really interested in poking around  but wanted to see the rest of the sights.

Then, when they learned that we had to go to meet our friend who had the car, they opened their bags of wares.  Oh, we knew we would be expected to buy something.  We were happy enough to buy something.  The trouble was that each and every lady wanted us to buy something from her.  We had to be very, very insistent.  We ended up buying a tablecloth that we wanted and a headscarf we didn’t really want.   And getting hassled all the way back down to meet up with our friends.

Later, under more peaceful circumstances, we bought more – a lovely scarf and some farm produce.

We stopped off at the beach and at the castle on the way home.  The castle is quite interesting, some of the foundation wall is Hellenistic, much of the rest is post Byzantine.  Beyond the castle, on the lake shore, are various tombs.  The castle is also a great place for taking photographs of the lake and mountains.

Obviously, on a day trip, one is pretty limited in what can be seen.  There is a lot more to see in the area.  There are more ruins and some cave paintings which are best accessed with a guide  as they are hard to find and the mountains can be treacherous, but that would require a weekend away.  Something to think about, perhaps, for next year.


14 responses to “Kapıkırı

  1. . . here’s a link to the cave paintings which are under threat from quarrying

  2. We spent a day at lake bafa it’s wonderful but reading your letter bought back memories of a lady coming out if no where selling her crafts you feel you have to buy but can’t off every one. Would love to go again have you been to the village where the lady’s wear flowers in their hair I’ll try to get you the name of the village we were invited into a home of a Turkish family and they had me trying her daughters wedding dress on I ve some photo s but not down loaded yet of cause when I say wedding dress Nothing like ours more like coat of many COlours but felt very honoured to try it .hope you are both ok

    • There are some lovely and quiet villages in the mountains above the lake and set in very dramatic positions. We have been to a few of them but not sure if we have been to the village you mention. Sound like you had a wonderful time.

  3. Hi again the village where the lady’s wear the flowers is called. Gomakdag. And a close to village that hasn’t changed since the earth quake is stratonikeia. Google them and you can read of them.they are more to bodrom,not as I thought bafa lake.we live only 10mins from didim near a village called mavisire our complex is royle blue. Didim. Think you can google that as well..we are out twice for 3weeks each time so if you were around and you would like to meet up with us let me know you have our e mail and I’ll give you our land line in turkey,think this is a great way to keep it touch,reading your stories make me feel as our second home isn’t so far away.thanks again Annette. Rob

  4. Coincidence! My daughter is home and we had the old albums out and were looking a pictures of Herakleia. Still one of my favourite places.

  5. Was that last message ment for me herakleia isn’t where we went it was stratonikeia unless there are different ways to spell it.will let you know what dates for next year I know it’s April and June both for 3weeks so hope we will meet up

    • Stratonikeia is a different place. We’d love to go.

      Herakleia is in and around Kapikiri.

      We’ve not got plans that far ahead but hope the bike will be back on the road well before then.

  6. Can’t believe we have still never been to Lake Bafa. We’ll get there one day because it’s just our sort of surroundings. Would love to camp there. 🙂

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